Coat has been sold to a fellow who lost everything in the San Diego fires.
Here is a bit about Sulka from my old Elegant Survival blog:
A. Sulka, Haberdasher to Royalty
|Posted on September 25, 2009 at 11:07 PM|
Sulka, Haberdasher to Royalty, Is to Close Its Last Shop in U.S.
By TERRY PRISTIN
Published: Friday, December 21, 2001 THE NEW YORK TIMES Sulka, the men’s haberdashery that once counted the Duke of Windsor, Winston Churchill, Henry Ford and Clark Gable among its customers, will close its Madison Avenue store, the last of its shops in the United States, real estate sources said yesterday. Founded more than a century ago and long renowned for its hand-tailored shirts and ties,Sulka changed hands several times and was once owned by Syms, the chain of discount clothing retailers. It is now owned by Vendôme Luxury Group, a division of Compagnie Financière Richemont, of Switzerland. Vendôme, which also owns upscale brands like Alfred Dunhill and Cartier, this year has shuttered Sulka stores in Paris and London and six in this country, including a boutique in the Waldorf-Astoria and a store on Park Avenue and 55th Street. The only store still open in the United States is the one at Madison Avenue and 69th Street, in the former Westbury Hotel, which was converted into condominium apartments two years ago. The space now occupied by Sulka is being leased to Gucci, which will combine it with space being vacated by two other stores under the Vendôme umbrella, James Purdey & Sons Ltd. and Montblanc. Sulka is expected to move out early next year, according to officials at Chelsfield, the company that developed the condominiums. Sulka and Richemont executives refused to comment yesterday. Retailing experts said that as younger shoppers came to prefer designer labels or Italian lines like Ermenegildo Zegna and Brioni, Sulka’s appeal became increasingly limited. ”That business was geared to a generation that’s passing on,” said Walter K. Levy, the managing director for retail trends and positioning at Kurt Salmon Associates, a consulting company. ”I don’t think the younger customer follows the tradition of a men’s house.” To be successful today, a men’s wear line needs to be associated with a famous personality, said Paul Wilmot, a fashion publicist. ”If you spend that kind of money,” he said, ”you want Calvin Klein’s name on it. You want to see Ralph Lauren. These are the design authorities.” Although Sulka was long the favorite haberdashery of the carriage trade, the company did not start out that way. When Amos Sulka, a traveling salesman and retailer from Johnstown, Pa., teamed up with Leon Wormser, a custom-shirt maker born in Alsace-Lorraine, to open the first A. Sulka & Company store on lower Broadway in 1895, their initial customers were husky firefighters and police officers who found it hard to find shirts that fit properly. But eventually the store attracted wealthy customers by using their butlers as walking advertisements for its merchandise. In 1904, Sulka opened a store in Paris. A few years later, the company began operating its own laundry to shrink the cotton used in the shirts and wash off the workers’ fingerprints. In 1917, the store began taking in customers’ laundry so that they would not have to risk damaging their shirts at ordinary laundries. That service, which lasted for several decades, enabled the company to weather the Great Depression. For many years, the company primarily used fabrics woven at its own mill in Lyon, France. Always a citadel of conservative dress, Sulka was also known in the early 1960’s for offbeat luxury items like his-and-her vicuña dressing gowns and leopard-skin gloves lined with beaver. Later, the company managed to survive another serious challenge — this time from a new direction in fashion emphasizing the flamboyant. The company broadened its line without radically altering its timeless image. A smoking jacket at Sulka may cost $1,500, the fashion writer Anne-Marie Schiro wrote in The New York Times in 1985. ”But then,” she added, ”nothing from Sulka ever goes out of style.”
Sulka Double-Breasted Raincoat at Elegant Survival Shop
Traditional, Reasonably-Priced Golf Clothes
Elegant Survival Recommendation
People who golf in tee-shirts and low-ridin’ pants look like rubes and slobs. Respect for the traditions of the game includes dressing in a dignified, classic style. Golf Knickers is a treasure-trove of traditional golfing trousers, shirts, hats, socks, et cetera. It’s refreshing to see their old-fashioned prices, as well as the wide array of golf classics.
~~Copyright M-J de Mesterton 2009
Here is an amusing video on golf etiquette by Proper Ollie.
…I mean but the low-hanging thereof. My photo shows elegant baggy or wide-legged trousers. Baggy pants, as in Oxford Bags, have been chic for decades in classic clothing. But, most people, when referring to the problem of low-sagging pants (trousers) just use the term, “baggy pants”. That’s really unfair, since what is being excoriated is the plumber’s crack, a source of derision for all times. What people abhor is the hideous sagging lowdown pants/trousers style. It really amounts to indecent exposure–someone’s underwear and opening showing in front, and whatever you wish to call it bared in the back–that’s the issue. Here is an article which I was sent by Sweden’s The Local–News in English:
Superb example of formal/professional suit by America’s top tailor is offered in brief auction for a song. This is the height of elegant dressing, in size 42 regular. If the auction is over, you can click on a link on the right side of the page to see the seller’s current offerings.
“Of all suits, the double-breasted is the most elegant,” says designer Alan Flusser, who chuckles at the “fashion” for DB. For well-dressed men, says Flusser, the suit’s ability to confer strength, stature and the suggestion of good breeding has made it a classic for 100 years…”~~Forbes Magazine September 2008
Choosing Clothes that Flatter the Human Corpus
So, you are possessed of a perfectly shaped body and decide to go shopping. There is nothing available but low-rise pants and skirts that rest on the hip. The fashion industry and its manufacturers are saving big bucks on your back. You decide that to go against what seem to be the demands of current fashion is pointless, so you buy whatever looks prettiest on the hanger. Once it goes onto your well-toned corpus, something sinister happens: your legs now look a mere foot long, and your tight “abs” sit above the low-rise top of your skirt or slacks, looking for all the world like a beer-gut. What’s happening here? The fashion industry is sabotaging your looks while saving themselves money on yardage. It’s now impossible to find a pair of pants, tights, or a skirt that comes up to the natural waist; anything that does is derisively and incorrectly labeled “high-waisted”.
Photo: Trousers with a Proper Waist, Available to the Elegant Man at www.tweed-jacket.com
If you must have your clothes made for you in order to avoid this sick, disfiguring fashion regime, there are ways to do it without breaking the bank. A well-constructed pair of corduroy, moleskin or tweed trousers will get you through the depression in style, last for many years, and what’s most appealing about them is that they will make you look taller than everyone else (unfortunate fashion-victims that they are). Even a well-shaped jacket can be sabotaged by slacks, skirts, or trousers that hang below it. Last night’s Academy Awards brought out a cavalcade of men whose crotches landed below the bottom edge of their jackets–poor misguided fellows, yet rich enough to get it right. Overly long slacks creating a puddle of fabric on top of men’s shoes do not lengthen their legs visually–they just look wretchedly tailored.
A tasteful and reliable source for elegant, durable tweed jackets and trousers is Bookster U.K. They will guide you through the ordering process, and see to it that your clothes have an actual waist, so that your investment isn’t a waste. The clothes are made by Bookster in England. There are plenty of British and American companies that copy the traditional English styles, but have them made inexpensively in China. Yet, these clothes are crafted the old-fashioned way, close to where the fabrics are milled in the United Kingdom. It may take a couple of months to have a great pair of trousers or elegant jackets made, but you just might be wearing them for a lifetime. Bookster U.K. is a small operation with a huge reputation for customer service and fine clothing. They specialize in equestrian and tweed clothes, which are perfect for town and country.
Don’t let hip-hop fashion and cheap clothing manufacturers dictate your style. It is time for an uprising against the tyranny of low-rise clothing.
~~Copyright M-J de Mesterton; February 23rd, 2009
Le Boulevardier sent this link to me: a Forbes article about what men will be wearing, with his comment that we at Elegant Survival have been lightyears ahead of fashion trends. We don’t advocate the style of a certain era, like some sites do, coming off like campy costumers. Our style has remained constant throughout the decades. We have written about the figure-and-image-enhancing qualities of classic cuts and fabrics, for both men and women. And let’s hope that the days of low-rise pants and ugly stubble are gone off the style radar, and relegated to the slums or prisons where they started. We are sick and tired of seeing men and women dressing and walking like slobs. Let the depression bring on some real dignity in human appearances. I’ve seen dogs that look better than the Hollywood crowd lately (maybe that’s why the brooch-pooch is so popular among them). Putting a movie star with a three-day growth on the cover of a style magazine is inexcusable. Beware of Splay-Foot, Shorty-Pants and Stubble-Face. They have made a mockery of the human race!
It’s going to be a very cold winter. Bookster has sheepskin jackets and classic raincoats, both new and used clothing in its on-line shop.